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All text and pictures Copyright Kent
Canoes 2006

Coaching
on the B.C.U. One Star Award (Kayak).
(Click on the
photos to enlarge them)
Welcome to the first article in the series
which aims to cover the B.C.U. (British Canoe Union) kayak and canoe Star
Awards and looks in detail at how the required skills can be developed.
The first article covers the B.C.U. One Star award for closed cockpit kayaks.
The One Star award is designed for complete beginners and covers all
the basic techniques to safely manoeuvre a kayak on flat water. This award
can usually be completed in a day and would be run by a B.C.U. Level 1 Coach
or above.
The award is divided up into three different sections, Theory, Practical"
A" and Practical "B".
Lets look first of all at the Practical "A" section of the
award.
Lifting, carrying and launching the
kayak.
 
Lifting and
carrying |
Before going canoeing we obviously need to
manually handle the boats from either a car roof rack, a trailer or a canoe
shed of some description to the water. The key to handling any heavy or
bulky objects is to practice good lifting and carrying techniques, i.e.
always ensuring that any lifting/carrying is done with a straight back and
using the leg muscles as required. With experience, most of the lifting/carrying
will be done without assistance. However, until this is the case, we need
to bear in mind that a general purpose canoe can initially feel very bulky
(being almost the same length as a family car) and we therefore need to
ensure that we do get assistance when lifting/carrying the boat to the water. |
Getting in the boat.
 
Getting in |
The key to getting in a boat safely is all
about weight transfer. Keeping the paddles near at hand and with the boat
in the water, crouch down facing the front of the boat level with the back
of the seat. Place the hand nearest the boat on the cockpit rim just behind
the seat on the far side of the boat, and pull the boat right into the bank
and keep the boat pulled towards the bank. This tilts the boat slightly
towards the bank. Place your other hand, on the bank by your side, and then
very gently sit on the back of the cockpit with your bottom just off centre
towards the bank. Now comes the weight transfer bit!! Lift your leg nearest
the boat into the cockpit transferring the weight this leg was supporting
to your supporting hand on the bank. Now lift your other leg into the cockpit
transferring the weight in the same way. Most of your weight should now
be supported by the back of the seat and your bank hand. Now all you need
to do is to straighten your legs and slide gently forwards onto the seat.
Once in the boat don't forget to grab the paddles!! |
Spinning the boat around on the spot.
| Because most modern general purpose kayaks
are based on old slalom designs they tend to be quite manoeuvrable. This
means that they can be a little tricky to keep in a straight line when canoeing
for the first time. We would therefore suggest that rather than trying to
learn forward paddling as the very first stroke, it is a good idea to just
get the feel of how the boat turns by practising spinning the boat on the
spot using wide forward and backward strokes which are known as "sweep
strokes". This will help to both keep the boat straight when forward
paddling and allow direction changes as required. |
 

Spinning
the boat
|
Making sure that you have plenty of space,
place the blade in the water by your feet. It is a good idea to twist the
body slightly from the waist to achieve this position. (This is known as
"trunk rotation"). With the blade fully immersed, and with an
almost straight arm, (almost straight because the muscles cannot be used
effectively with a completely straight arm) sweep the blade towards the
back of the boat in an arc. The boat will turn away from the paddle. Practice
this on one side first of all, then practice the same stroke on the other
side. Note that the first part of the stroke turns the front of the boat
away from the paddle and the last part of the stroke pulls the back of the
boat towards the paddle. Now try backward "sweep strokes" by placing
the blade towards the back of the boat as far back as is comfortable, again
twisting a little at the waist to aid the positioning of the blade. If you
are using curved blades, remember that you don't need to swivel the paddle
round to perform this stroke, but simply use the back face of the blade.
Now just sweep the blade forward in a wide arc. Once you have practised
this on both sides, you can combine a forward sweep on one side with a reverse
sweep on the other which will cause the boat to spin on the spot. |
Forward paddling.
This looks one of the easiest things to
do when starting canoeing but in a general purpose kayak can be one of the
most difficult for the reasons explained above. The usual difficulty experienced
by beginners is keeping the boat running straight. There are however, a
few tips which can be helpful to resolve this. Firstly, it is very important
to look up the whole time and use your peripheral vision to pick up when
the boat starts to move off course. If you look down at the front of the
boat, you will not detect when the boat is moving off course until you feel
it through "the seat of your pants", by which time it is often
too late to correct. So look up, point the front of the boat at an object
in the distance, a tree or whatever, and if the boat starts to move off
course you can visually see what is happening instantly and correct it.
The best way of correcting a boat that is moving off course without loosing
momentum is by applying a forward sweep stroke. I.e. If the front of the
boat is moving towards the left, apply a forward sweep stroke on the left
concentrating on the first part of the stroke to correct the movement. If
the back (stern) of the boat is skidding off course, apply a sweep stroke
on the opposite side concentrating on the last part of the forward sweep
to pull the stern back in line.
A common reason why we tend to paddle off course is because we are naturally
handed. In other words right handed paddlers will instinctively pull harder
on the right than the left, causing the boat to turn to the left, and visa
versa for left handed paddlers. Being aware of this allows us to compensate
by not pulling so had on the relevant side. There are a number of other
key points which we will cover in more detail on the Two Star Award but
two other coaching points are well worth look at at this stage. Firstly
it is important that the boat is in balance, this can be achieved by sitting
upright or even leaning slightly forward when paddling. Secondly, when forward
paddling aim to place the blade in by the feet and clip it out as it reaches
the hips, keeping the paddle blade running as parallel to the centre line
of the boat as possible and the same distance from the boat on both sides. |
Stopping.
 
Stopping |
To paddle safely it is very important to be
able to stop quickly and efficiently. Stopping a boat that is travelling
forwards requires backward paddling. No great surprises there, but unfortunately
just jamming the blade in on the first reverse stroke, will make the boat
unstable. The trick is to quickly perform several reverse stokes with the
paddle blade only partially submerged. This reduces the risk of instability
and allows for several strokes to be performed quickly on each side of the
boat. Practise this until you can comfortably reverse the direction of the
boat within four strokes. N.B. Like the reverse sweep, there is no need
to swivel the paddle, it is both simpler and quicker just to use the back
of the blade. |
Reverse paddling:
| Reverse or backward paddling is a useful technique
for all sorts of reasons, but is particularly useful at this stage when
forming a raft with other canoeists. Technically it is very similar to the
reverse sweep that we have already covered but instead of the paddle being
pushed away from the boat in an arc, push the paddle along the side to the
canoe. The key things to remember are to try and twist the body slightly
(trunk rotation) from the waist which will help "plant" the blade
as far back and as is comfortable. Then run the blade along the side of
the boat and clip the paddle out at around the knees. You should now have
untwisted your trunk and be ready to apply trunk rotation on the opposite
side before placing the paddle in on the other side and completing the cycle.
So how do you see where your are going? Simply look over one or both shoulders
to see what is behind. |
Paddling a figure of eight course.
| This is a requirement of the B.C.U. One Star
Award and is excellent practise for learning to steer, and effectively use
forward sweep strokes. |
Returning to the bank and getting out.
| Approaching the bank and getting out needs
to be done with care and canoeists will usually combine a number of strokes
to achieve this depending on the situation. Ruddering, stopping and or moving
the boat sideways are the most common ways of approaching the bank. The
technique for getting out is the reverse of getting in. |
Practical "B"
Capsize, swim ashore and empty the boat.
This
is the bit most people worry about but in fact there is no need
to. To start with it is initially possible to practise getting out
of the boat without getting wet!! It is a good idea at the beginning
of the day to sit in the boat, put the front of the spray deck on
(if you are using one), making sure that the release strap is not
tucked inside the boat. Then practise reaching forward, releasing
the deck, putting your thumbs inside the cockpit level with your
hips and your fingers on the outside, push your body up and back
at the same time, to exit the boat. It may help in some boats to
straighten your legs whilst doing this. this can be repeated several
times until you are completely happy with exiting the boat.
Once you have practised
this, should a capsize happen accidentally not only will you know
what to do but the whole operation is made much easier by the fact
that you are almost weightless once in the water. Once in the water,
quickly gather up the paddle if necessary, swim to one end of the
boat and tow it to shore. It is essential that you do not try to
right the boat, since this will break the air lock and fill it with
water. On reaching the bank get help emptying the boat which will
be quite heavy because of the extra water in it.
The B.C.U. One Star award
also requires that we can show satisfactory beginnings in moving
the boat sideways, ruddering and preventing a capsize. |
Moving the boat sideways:
 
Moving the
boat sideways |
This
is a useful technique to help get into tight spots or for just approaching
the bank. What we are aiming to do here is literally to pull the boat
sideways. This can be achieved by placing the blade in the water a
few feet away from the boat, with the paddle shaft almost vertical
and the paddle blade (in the water) facing you. All you then need
to do is pull the blade towards you. The recovery of the blade is
quite important here because you do not want the blade to dig in under
the boat. This can be avoided either by slicing the blade out to the
rear of the kayak when it reaches a point about 6" from the boat,
or you can use a technique which is a little more complicated which
involves "knifing" the blade back out by rotating your wrist
forwards when the blade is 6" from the boat and slicing the blade
away from the boat. The key to successfully pulling the boat sideways
is to find the position on the side of the boat which, if you pull
the blade towards, will result in the boat going perfectly sideways.
This point is usually either in line with the hips or just in front
of the hips. |
Ruddering:
| Ruddering is a stroke which helps us keep
the boat running in a straight line and is used for example when paddling
through narrow passages or small gaps. It works something like a rudder
on a boat but instead of the rudder being at the back of the boat it is
to one side. Ruddering is only effective if the boat is moving at a reasonable
pace. Place the paddle along the side of the boat, and with the rear blade
in the vertical position drop it into the water until it is submerged. Ideally
the blade should be a foot or so away from the edge of the boat which will
enable you to steer the boat through a narrow gap by either pushing or pulling
on the blade as required. |
Preventing a capsize:
| Why is it that experienced canoeists rarely
capsize ever when paddling on white water? The answer is simple. They use
their paddles as a lever to stop themselves going over. If you start to
fall, you instinctively extend your hand to save yourself. You can develop
the same reflexes when canoeing, but instead of reaching out with a hand
you reach out with a paddle blade and push down firmly on the surface of
the water to stop yourself capsizing. For this to be effective you need
to be a reasonably good fit in your boat so if you are supporting on the
right hand side, you can transfer the uplift gained from the paddle, to
your hips and right knee, which will enable you to rotate the boat on balance
again. Having a foot rest in the boat also aids this greatly. |
Theory.
Lastly the theory side of the B.C.U. One Star Award covers basic questions
on: equipment, safety, first aid and the environment and access. Recommended
reading for this is the Canoeing Handbook which is available through all
good canoe retailers!!
Don't miss next months issue of "Paddles" where we will be
discussing the B.C.U. Two Star Award. Happy paddling!!
All text and pictures Copyright Kent
Canoes
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